Pontremoli is not what it appears to be
Don’t mean to offend anyone, but Pontremoli is not exactly the most sexy part of Tuscany. Yet the town with the trembling bridge turned out to be a lot more interesting than we’d first assumed.
If you associate Tuscany with rolling green hills dotted with lean cypress trees and fields of sunflowers, Pontremoli may come as a disappointment. The old town locked between River Magra and the Verde stream has the typical characteristics of Italian mountain villages including too many churches, a declining population and a mass of grey skies hanging in the distance. Not a lot to write about, if it had not been for the enthusiasm, dedication and expert guidance of Francesco Bola and Simona Polli from the private sustainable tourism organisation Farfalle in cammino.
Room full of humanized stone pillars
Francesco lives in Pontremoli and as an art historian and tour guide, he knows where to go and what to see.
We started in the castello del Piagnaro. A medieval castle designed to guard the main roads leading through the Apennine Mountains to Rome. In these giant halls that used to house soldiers, pilgrims on the Via Francigena can still find shelter for the night for 11 Euro a head, but other figures have taken permanent residence in the building. The museum holds a unique collection of statue menhir dating back to the European Neolithic era and there is something profoundly touching about these humanized stone pillars with their friendly smiles, fancy jewelry, pretty page cut and pointed breasts. A very special experience that really deserves a separate blog post.
After admiring the views from the top of the castle, Francesco led us back through Pontremoli to another museum with more prehistoric pieces.
– This museum is normally closed, he explained, and produced a key to demonstrate the kind of heritage the city council cannot afford to look after, let alone keep open for the public.
A town that used to be divided in two
We had reached the central square in Pontremoli that according to Francesco used to be divided by a local version of the Berlin Wall due to some disagreement that for centuries had split the population in two. Now the only road is passable in both directions right down to the point end of the peninsula.
The Duomo of Pontremoli with all the lights turned on.
We entered the Duomo and Francesco fed a coin in the electricity metre to lighten up all electric candles and display the church in its baroque splendor. The golden cherubs gave the impression on a royal palace and made the church seem much more aristocratic than the last stop on Francesco’s tour, which was Palazzo Dosi – Magnavacca. A private residence building from 1700 where the current owners occupy only a third floor apartment due to the cost of maintenance and heating. In better days the artist Antonio Contestabili (1716-1790) had painted the interior of the palazzo with an extraordinary trompe l’oeil.
Something I chose to see as a beautiful reminder that in spite of all the apparent riches everything is not always what it appears to be.
A big thank you to Francesco and Simona for an inspiring city walk. And for pointing out that Pontremoli is within commuter distance from great sights like Cinque Terra, Carrara, Parma, etc. There is even a train service to take you there.
Simona Polli and Francesco Bola from the private sustainable tourism organisation Farfalle in cammino.
Stunning, truly – I’m sitting here slack-jawed and in awe of the photo of The Duomo of Pontremoli with all the lights turned on.
It was a breath-taking moment when the lights were turned on.
Beautiful post!
Thank you.
I have had the plesure to see the town from every angel and met Mr Fransesco and his eager to show what the Town is .
It was an wonderful adventure and an exciting town.
Nice. I sure Francesco appreciates the recommendation and support
Very beautiful…
Thanks.
I love reading about sustainable tourism initiatives around the world and am so glad that you shared your experience with Farfalle in cammino in Pontremoli!
They have got an important mission in trying to spread out the enormous interest for Tuscany and Cinque Terra.
Ahhh, always good when you’ve got someone in the know to show you around somewhere and give you a whole new perspective on the place. :)
Julia
Yes, you never go wrong with a good guide.
Pontremoli is situated in Lunigiana, a border sub-region between Tuscany and Liguria. No one in Italy believes that Pontremoli (and Lunigiana) is the typical green-hills Tuscany. Furthermore Lunigiana was the border between the Etruscans (ancient Tuscans) and the ancient Ligurians, so you can find evidences of both civilizations (more sophisticated the Etruscan one).
Thank you for taking the time to explain this from an Italian point of view.
As a regular visitor to Pontremoli I agree with Francescos report, it is a very Italian town with very little tourism to spoil it. The public toilets are another matter, the facilities in the commune are very poor and the ones in the cemetery are a health hazard.
I think that is a problem all over Italy. Which is why most Italians I know are highly skilled in sweet talking barmen to let them use their facilities.
PONTREMOLI WAS A MAJOR STOP OFF POINT FOR THE ANCIENT PILGRAMIGE ROAD TO ROME…USING THE PASSO DELLA CISA AND THE BRATELLO….SO ONCE OVER THE MOUNTAIN THIS WAS THE 1ST PLACE YOU VOULD FIND SHELTER AND SUSTAINANCE IN THE MIDDLE AGES NOT TO MENTION ITALY’S FORMOST BOOK PRIZE ….THE PREMIO BANCARELLA DEL LIBRO…
EVERY YEAR.
Wait a second, I am a Magnavacca by blood and am from Pontremoli.
I hope your family hasn’t given up that noble palace:)
My Grandmother and great grandparents are from Pontremoli. Have been to Italy but never to Pontremoli.
That’s a pity. Also because there are so many other great places to visit in the area.
Hi there! This is a super useful pat and great read. I realize this was written in 2013 and so much has likely changed since your last visit. But I am looking for a little more information on Pontremoli and would appreciate your thoughts. Thank you
I’ve been going to Pontremoli for approx 50yrs.Nothing much changes as it hasn’t in the old part for millenia. The modern part has had some new flats built but very low key.
I am from America and have been all over Italy. I spent 3+ months in Pontremoli and it is my favorite village and my favorite place to be. The town people are friendly & beautiful. Once you learn the area, there are some great restaurants and it is very relaxing. I will be returning in June 2025, bringing my children & grandchildren with me. I am looking forward to relaxing & seeing the people.
There’s something to look forward to. I hope you’ll all have an amazing time.
I also note that the original post is from 2013. Is the organization Farfalle in Cammino still around? Do you have a contact for them? I will be in Lucca for 3 weeks in February, 2025 and would love to see everything you described. I am drooling to make this discovery!
Farfalle in Cammino is still active. You can check out their webpage and find their contact info here: https://www.farfalleincammino.org/