Two sides of Castrovillari in Calabria
There are two sides to everything in Castrovillari in Calabria. A new-old town totally surrounded by mountains in the deep south of Italy.
I guess, I have heard too many mafia stories for every trip to Calabria is accompanied by a mixture of fear and fascination. I am mesmerized by road signs with rusty holes that might as well be from stray bullets as stone chips. Frightened by warnings of falling stones and 19th century tales of brigandage. And intrigued by lovers of the stone ages and the taciturn toothless farmers guarding their small lots of land. Calabria has its own peculiar atmosphere, which is very different from other parts of Italy.
Pictures from the old part of Castrovillari
The old and the new
I felt the inherent dichotomy again, when we went to spend a weekend in Castrovillari in Calabria. Even from a distance you can see the natural contrast between the surrounding mountains and the houses on the plain. The climate oscillates between warm Mediterranean summers and mountainous winter snow. And the town itself is divided into an old part with derelict grey houses and winding, narrow roads and a new part with a cross of two straight boulevards lined by trees and modern buildings. The two halves of the city are connected by the Ponte della Catena – a chain bridge with no chains giving you a splendid view of the green wood towards the Tyrrhenian coast and the rugged canyons leading down to Rossano and the Ionian Sea.
View from Castrovillari towards Diamante and the Thyrrenian Sea
Farmers and artists
On this particular Saturday afternoon there was an open air art exhibition along the main shopping street, where local artists showed off their models and discussed their work with people passing by. The mostly abstract paintings contrasted a few naivistic frescos decorating some of the houses in the old part of town, just as there was a gulf between stilettos and plastic slippers and a Lamborghini and Piaggio Ape that could be spottet side by side.
Affluence thrives in the modern part of Castrovillari.
Chekhov material
Perhaps all the division experienced in Calabria boils down to a question of wealth. The expensive cars and clothes indicate that times are changing, but the people in Calabria have fought against poverty and illness for generations and there is still a strong sense of disillusion and failure around. As the Italian journalist, Guido Piovene pointed out in the 1950, life in Calabria was Chekhov material. And you can still feel the futility over a weekend.
Mette, yet again you offer such wonderful eye candy. You should consider starting your own tours. I’d sign up!
I’m planning to do just that. In my next life:)
Yet another part of Italy unfamiliar to me – a thrilling one, it sounds.
It’s good to have something in store.
What a wonderful article-the next best thing to being there. Thanks, Mette!
Glad you like it.
What a charming and interesting town. I’ve never heard of this part of Italy. Great post and always love how you show the hidden gems of Italy.That open air art exhibition would have been fun to see.
The art exhibition was fun. Though I’m not sure the paintings would qualify for more than a healthy hobby.
Beautiful city…
Indeed.
I would have loved to peruse the open air art exhibit…always such a pleasure to speak with local artists!
It is. They are often very interesting people.
Looks like such a beautiful place! The open air art exhibit looked amazing. Thanks for sharing.
Castrovillari is nice, and way off the beaten path in Italy.
Finally a place off-the-beaten path in Italy. Like Italy but not the crazy crowds. Btw just followed you on Twitter as well – looking forward to connect! Torsten
Looking forward to following you as well. And there are more off-the-beaten path places in Italy than most people seem to imagine.
The birthplace of my Grandpa! Had the opportunity of visiting Castrovillari and nearby towns in the southern region of Italy. Nice people, food and views. We started by car from Naples via the Amalfi Coast towards south. Really recomend to visit it.
It must be wonderful to visit the birthplace of your ancestors this way, and I can understand you were thrilled to see Castrovillari after the buzz of Naples and the beauty of Sorrento.