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Two sides of Castrovillari in Calabria

You are here: Home1 / Calabria2 / Cosenza3 / Two sides of Castrovillari in Calabria

Two sides of Castrovillari in Calabria

There are two sides to everything in Castrovillari in Calabria. A new-old town totally surrounded by mountains in the deep south of Italy.

I guess, I have heard too many mafia stories for every trip to Calabria is accompanied by a mixture of fear and fascination. I am mesmerized by road signs with rusty holes that might as well be from stray bullets as stone chips. Frightened by warnings of falling stones and 19th century tales of brigandage. And intrigued by lovers of the stone ages and the taciturn toothless farmers guarding their small lots of land. Calabria has its own peculiar atmosphere, which is very different from other parts of Italy.

Castrovillari in Calabria

Pictures from the old part of Castrovillari

The old and the new

I felt the inherent dichotomy again, when we went to spend a weekend in Castrovillari in Calabria. Even from a distance you can see the natural contrast between the surrounding mountains and the houses on the plain. The climate oscillates between warm Mediterranean summers and mountainous winter snow.  And the town itself is divided into an old part with derelict grey houses and winding, narrow roads and a new part with a cross of two straight boulevards lined by trees and modern buildings. The two halves of the city are connected by the Ponte della Catena – a chain bridge with no chains giving you a splendid view of the green wood towards the Tyrrhenian coast and the rugged canyons leading down to Rossano and the Ionian Sea.

castrovillari-in-calabria

View from Castrovillari towards Diamante and the Thyrrenian Sea

Farmers and artists

On this particular Saturday afternoon there was an open air art exhibition along the main shopping street, where local artists showed off their models and discussed their work with people passing by. The mostly abstract paintings contrasted a few naivistic frescos decorating some of the houses in the old part of town, just as there was a gulf between stilettos and plastic slippers and a Lamborghini and Piaggio Ape that could be spottet side by side.

Castrovillari in Calabria

Affluence thrives in the modern part of Castrovillari.

Chekhov material

Perhaps all the division experienced in Calabria boils down to a question of wealth. The expensive cars and clothes indicate that times are changing, but the people in Calabria have fought against poverty and illness for generations and there is still a strong sense of disillusion and failure around. As the Italian journalist, Guido Piovene pointed out in the 1950, life in Calabria was Chekhov material. And you can still feel the futility over a weekend.



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18 replies
  1. Maria
    Maria says:
    February 2, 2014 at 5:33 pm

    Mette, yet again you offer such wonderful eye candy. You should consider starting your own tours. I’d sign up!

    Reply
    • admin
      admin says:
      February 3, 2014 at 6:54 pm

      I’m planning to do just that. In my next life:)

      Reply
  2. Sophie
    Sophie says:
    February 2, 2014 at 7:39 pm

    Yet another part of Italy unfamiliar to me – a thrilling one, it sounds.

    Reply
    • admin
      admin says:
      February 3, 2014 at 6:54 pm

      It’s good to have something in store.

      Reply
  3. Adri
    Adri says:
    February 2, 2014 at 8:07 pm

    What a wonderful article-the next best thing to being there. Thanks, Mette!

    Reply
    • admin
      admin says:
      February 3, 2014 at 6:55 pm

      Glad you like it.

      Reply
  4. Mary {The World Is A Book}
    Mary {The World Is A Book} says:
    February 2, 2014 at 10:33 pm

    What a charming and interesting town. I’ve never heard of this part of Italy. Great post and always love how you show the hidden gems of Italy.That open air art exhibition would have been fun to see.

    Reply
    • admin
      admin says:
      February 3, 2014 at 6:56 pm

      The art exhibition was fun. Though I’m not sure the paintings would qualify for more than a healthy hobby.

      Reply
  5. Muza-chan
    Muza-chan says:
    February 3, 2014 at 7:35 am

    Beautiful city…

    Reply
    • admin
      admin says:
      February 3, 2014 at 6:57 pm

      Indeed.

      Reply
  6. Jess @UsedYorkCity
    Jess @UsedYorkCity says:
    February 4, 2014 at 2:43 am

    I would have loved to peruse the open air art exhibit…always such a pleasure to speak with local artists!

    Reply
    • admin
      admin says:
      February 6, 2014 at 7:13 pm

      It is. They are often very interesting people.

      Reply
  7. Mary @ Green Global
    Mary @ Green Global says:
    February 4, 2014 at 4:38 am

    Looks like such a beautiful place! The open air art exhibit looked amazing. Thanks for sharing.

    Reply
    • admin
      admin says:
      February 6, 2014 at 7:14 pm

      Castrovillari is nice, and way off the beaten path in Italy.

      Reply
  8. MightyTravels
    MightyTravels says:
    April 5, 2014 at 3:56 am

    Finally a place off-the-beaten path in Italy. Like Italy but not the crazy crowds. Btw just followed you on Twitter as well – looking forward to connect! Torsten

    Reply
    • admin
      admin says:
      April 6, 2014 at 9:57 am

      Looking forward to following you as well. And there are more off-the-beaten path places in Italy than most people seem to imagine.

      Reply
  9. Julio Lainfiesta Rimola
    Julio Lainfiesta Rimola says:
    October 14, 2017 at 4:20 am

    The birthplace of my Grandpa! Had the opportunity of visiting Castrovillari and nearby towns in the southern region of Italy. Nice people, food and views. We started by car from Naples via the Amalfi Coast towards south. Really recomend to visit it.

    Reply
    • Mette
      Mette says:
      October 14, 2017 at 3:34 pm

      It must be wonderful to visit the birthplace of your ancestors this way, and I can understand you were thrilled to see Castrovillari after the buzz of Naples and the beauty of Sorrento.

      Reply

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