Grazzano Badoglio
A village in Monferrato Italy
We dropped into Grazzano Badoglio in Monferrato as an instance of pure serendipity. The tiny village halfway between Asti and Casale Monferrato in Piedmont looked more or less deserted in the winter sun. If the place really has a population of 615 souls, they sure weren’t at home this morning. Even the butcher’s Macelleria remained closed.
A controversial hero
Still, we could not resist the temptation of a quick look around, and fell over a plaque commemorating Pietro Badoglio. Pietro Badoglio was born in Grazzano in 1871. He served as an Italian general in both World Wars. And he became Prime Minister of Italy in 1943, when Mussolini was removed from power.
In spite of the credentials, Badoglio was a controversial hero. Various sources blame him for the disasterous Battle of Caporetto in 1917 and the brutal invasion of Ethiopia in 1935, where he authorized the use of mustard gas against the Ethiopian army.
Pictures from Grazzano Badoglio in the Monferrato part of Piedmont.
After WWII Pietro Badaglio could well have been tried for war crimes, but the Allied Forces appreciated his role in the aftermath of fascism, and in 1947 he retired to his home village.
The family home
The village had changed its name from Grazzano Monferrato to Grazzano Badoglio in honour of the military leader in 1939. And in 1937 the family home had been converted into an asylum for young children. This was where Badoglio’s life started and ended, and today it is supposed to be a museum.
We sneaked a look into the yard without seeing any signs or people indicating that the place might be open to the public. Pietro Badoglio only gets a cursory mention under Grazzano in the Italian Wikipedia, so perhaps his importance and reputation is fading along with the otherwise charming hilltop village.
The quiet centre of Grazzano Badoglio
More on Piedmont
Romantic getaway from which you can explore the best of Asti
In Italy Badoglio is almost a synonymous for coward.
So that explains the lack of wiki references:)
Interesting piece, esp the reference to towns in Italy changing their names thanks to “local boys” (girls?) making good. As in the case of Arqua Petrarca, nr Padua, or Castagneto Carducci in Tuscany.
One thing, the “asilo” in question is not an “asylum” but a kindergarten, surely? asilo nido, as the Istituto Luce newsreel states. In English, an “asylum” is/was only for the insane.
Buona continuazione!
Yes, there were quite a lot of those towns changing names in the 1930s. Sasso Marconi might also be added. And you are right. It surely was not an asylum for the mentally ill. Still, I don’t think they had kindergartens in the 1930s either. I thought the word could also be used in reference to orphan asylums.
Must admit I’ve never heard of Badoglio, so this was interesting. Italian prime ministers… at least, they’re not boring :)
So right – and they have quite a lot of former PMs to chose from, too.
This was such an interesting read. I admit I only know Mussolini so this was over my head. How interesting that the town seemed empty and you had it to yourselves.
These towns are so small they hardly qualify as more than a collection of houses. And most of the people probably have to commute to work.