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Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria

Umbria has a proud tradition for keeping the ancient crafts alive in contemporary work.  An example is wrought iron that is still produced and used throughout the region.



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My hunt for wrought iron crafts in Umbria started, when I was struck by a lamp post. Standing outside a post office in Perugia, two heavily ornamental and slightly rusty ironworks add fantasy and fabulation to a serene entrance.  The crude metal has been wound, twisted, stamped and battered into a wild fusion of leaves, flowers and fruit decorations ending in five hanging lamps like the crown compass over a captain’s bunk in old merchant ships. The lamp posts look heavy and laborious, and it’s amazing to think how much material and work has been invested in such a minor architectural detail.

Wrought iron is everywhere

Guided by these lamp posts, I started looking for more wrought iron work on visits to Umbria and found it everywhere. In the countryside, iron gates mark the entrance to most private properties and free standing houses are ‘sotto ferro’ in the sense that iron bars protect doors and windows from burglary. In the cities, the blacksmiths have forged the railings of balconies and window boxes that cascade real flowers over elegant piazzas and narrow lanes. Old houses have retained their ancient door knockers, nails and bolts in cast iron.  Street lamps and church chandeliers demonstrate the local iron master’s skills. Outdoor cafes serve espresso on tables supported by metal frames, wrought iron chairs make a welcome contrast to the cheap plastic furniture and bakers and barbershops announce their presence with artistic wrought iron signs.

Apparently the production of wrought iron has been widespread in Umbria since the Middle Ages. Today the craft is being updated by workshops found in Assisi, Citta’ della Pieve and in the villages around Lake Trasimeno. Related activities such as the reproduction of ancient weapons and armour have developed in Gubbio, while the blacksmiths in Villamagina specialize in iron tools like files and rasps, and their colleagues in Preci produce surgical instruments.

Photo of Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria
Photo of Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria
Photo of Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria
Photo of Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria
Photo of Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria
Photo of Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria
Photo of Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria
Photo of Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria
Photo of Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria
Photo of Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria
Photo of Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria
Photo of Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria
Photo of Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria
Photo of Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria
Photo of Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria
Photo of Wrought Iron Crafts in Umbria

Artisan crafts

The production of iron tools and ferro battuto decorations is not limited to Umbria. In every Italian region there are workshops producing artisan products, even though it is increasingly hard for the traditional crafts to remain competitive.

Already in the 1950s, the journalist Guido Piovene interviewed a blacksmith in Perugia, who explained the situation:

‘They say the artisan crafts are the pride of Italy; their example teaches us to persist with individual work, and preserve the human dignity by refusing to give in to machinery. Yesterday, I amazed two Englishmen by making a rose in 10 minutes in front of their very eyes. But a pheasant or a grouse require 10 days, and the price does not match the work. I don’t have money to spare, no help.’

A contemporary ‘Viaggio in Italia’ would probably reach the same conclusion. From this point of view, it’s a wonder that the old artisan crafts survive in Italy, and that I can still be struck by the delicate beauty of a wrought iron lamppost.

If you want to discover more about wrought iron crafts in Umbrian visit the  Museo Arti e Mestieri dell’Umbria in Assisi.

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8 replies
  1. Laura @Travelocafe
    Laura @Travelocafe says:
    September 8, 2015 at 12:30 pm

    I love iron crafts. I have a profound appreciation for the people that create such wonderful art from iron. I have some at home and I am very fond of them, too. And I also love to discover new ones everywhere I travel. Thanks for sharing these ones with us.

    Reply
    • Mette Vaabengaard
      Mette Vaabengaard says:
      September 9, 2015 at 5:55 pm

      Getting envious now:) I’m always on the lookout for wrought iron candle sticks, but so far I haven’t had any luck. I suppose most of the iron craft in Italy is made to order.

      Reply
  2. Shikha (whywasteannualleave)
    Shikha (whywasteannualleave) says:
    September 8, 2015 at 10:40 pm

    I had no idea that Umbria was famous for wrought iron crafts Mette -some of these works of art are just stunning and I’m so impressed you managed to make a rose so quickly!

    Reply
    • Mette Vaabengaard
      Mette Vaabengaard says:
      September 9, 2015 at 5:57 pm

      I think I have to highlight the quotation marks, Shikha. It wasn’t me who made the rose in 10 minutes, but a skilled craftsman. Still impressive though:)

      Reply
  3. Muza-chan
    Muza-chan says:
    September 10, 2015 at 12:03 pm

    Beautiful city….

    Reply
    • Mette Vaabengaard
      Mette Vaabengaard says:
      September 16, 2015 at 6:21 pm

      Yes. There are many beautiful cities throughout the region.

      Reply
  4. Stephen Garone
    Stephen Garone says:
    September 11, 2015 at 12:55 am

    Great stuff! This craftsmanship is superior and so rare in our modern world. Thanks for sharing.

    Reply
    • Mette Vaabengaard
      Mette Vaabengaard says:
      September 16, 2015 at 6:22 pm

      Yes. In that sense I sometimes miss the good old days.

      Reply

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