The Public Squares of Ascoli Piceno
The Public Squares of Ascoli Piceno in Marche are among the most beautiful open air living rooms in Italy. And the spirit of Hemingway and Satre lingers on.
Ascoli Piceno in southern Marche poses one great challenge: That is the challenge of finding a way in. Surrounded by rivers, mountains and a fortified medieval wall the town offers protection against foreign invaders, and the tendency has been enforced by plenty of high and effective speed humps on the circular roads leading into the city. The marchegiani don’t just open their home to anybody.
101 Towers
Still, ample reward awaits those who do find their way into the mainly pedestrian ‘centro storico’. Although widely different from more popular tourist destinations, Ascoli Piceno is often counted among the most beautiful small towns of Italy due to the hundred-and-one of towers in varying styles; the straight and narrow streets and the elaborately embellished palazzo with colonnades and porticos and with fruit, leaves, animals or arabesques painted around every window and doorway. Walking around the old streets studying house exteriors presents an undivided pleasure.
Outdoor Living Rooms
The best thing about Ascoli Piceno is, however, the piazze.
The central Piazza del Popolo is so like a living room, you would be surprised if it started to rain. In this open air room the imposing Palazzo dei Capitani del Popolo holds the place of honour. Restaurants and cafés line the square and especially the salmon coloured Caffè Meletti attracts attention.
This elegant café has recently been restored to former splendour, which means that the paintings, wood work, staircase and other details look exactly as they did at the opening 103 years ago. Sitting here in the shadow sipping “anisette con la mosca”, where a coffee bean stands in for the fly, you can almost feel the presence of Ernest Hemingway, Jean Paul Satre, Andre Gide and Simone de Beauvoir, who have allegedly been among the guests. At least people with a nostalgic disposition and vivid imagination can claim the spirit of the great travelers, philosophers and writers lingers on.
Caffè Meletti in Ascoli Piceno
I hadn’t heard of Ascoli Piceno before, but it looks beautiful. I love sitting in city squares such as this one and watch life happen.
*sigh* Italy is just so gorgeous! And this looks like the perfect place to sit with a good coffee and just watching Italian life happen
Mette, It would have been amazing to rub elbows with (or just eavesdrop on) Simone de Beauvoir at the next table – can you imagine? Wow! The central Piazza del Popolo really does sound like a living room… like one I’d never want to leave.
Yes, I wonder if their table talk was as lucid as their writing.
Sitting at Caffé Meletti for an aperitive or an expresso “corretto” with anice it is pure pleasure. You do not want anything more! And what about if you are bit hungry? Olive Ascolane with Rosso Piceno…
I can almost smell the coffee, though I’m not sure how well it goes with the olives;)
I can almost smell the coffee, though I’m not sure, how well it goes with the olives;)
When I’m in Ascoli on a spring or summer day, my typical itinerary is aperitif at Caffé Meletti, Olive Ascolane at Migliori an then back to Meletti for an expresso with anice sipped while having a random chat with people hanging around. Final stop is at Rinascita bookshop where I usually buy a book for winter nights readings.
Sounds perfect. I wouldn’t mind keeping you company.
Pasquale if you are still in As oli could _ou please answer a question? Is Veneta the gelateria right off of the Piazza still in business.
We usually come to italy to stay in my father-in-law’s town of Pretare but since the house was damaged in the earthquake we have not been back to visit. Loved going down to Ascoli to go to Mass at St. Emidio’s, go to the most beautiful piazza in all the world and then get a cone of limone and fragola from Veneta.