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Looking back at the Paradise Gates in Florence

The newly restored Paradise Gates are among the many free sights in Florence, and if you look closely they stare right back at you.



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One of the great things about Florence in Tuscany is that you can walk around the centre and accidentally bump into great works of art. Like Lorenzo Ghiberti’s golden door in the octagonal Florence Baptistery opposite the cathedral.

I had read how floods, vandalism and pollution had rendered the gilded bronze from 1452 grey and grimy. And heard about new methods of restoration and how the original panels had been replaced by copies. Yet I had all but forgotten about the doors, until I saw a large group of tourist with their backs to the cathedral and cameras pointed at a spiky fence.

Paradise Gates in Florence 1

Pictures and details from the gates of paradise with the restored golden door to the left compared to the grimy bronze to the right.

Named by Michelangelo

On closer inspection I saw the celebrated golden East door depicting 10 scenes from the Old Testament, and though I couldn’t quite recognize the stories, it was impossible not to admire the details in low relief that had been 21 years in the making. It was these doors Michelangelo called the Gates of Paradise, and the name has stuck ever since.

What fascinated me the most, however, was the framework surrounding the panels. Ghiberti has not just decorated the frames with foliage, fruit and the occasional prophet. He has also inserted 24 busts including a self portrait that stick their necks out and stare right back at us. So even though we were centuries apart I tried to engage in a staring contest with the famous artist. And unsurprisingly I blinked first.

Other things to see near the Paradise Gates in Florence

Souvenirs from Florence

Florence for newbies

Tours around Florence for Wine Lovers

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17 replies
  1. Maria
    Maria says:
    September 15, 2013 at 9:43 pm

    I was there in the early 1990s and there weren’t any fences. The original doors had been taken down and copies were in place but there was no need for a fence at that time. Sad to see there is now. On the upside, Ghiberti was a an amazing sculptor and fenced or not, the doors are a must see.

    Reply
    • admin
      admin says:
      September 16, 2013 at 6:06 pm

      Interesting. I found the fences a bit disturbing as you have to push your way up to the front of the line to really see through them.

      Reply
  2. Jeff Titelius
    Jeff Titelius says:
    September 15, 2013 at 11:59 pm

    I LOVE LOVE LOVE the Gates of Paradise and the Baptistery too from the outside in!! Exquisite in every respect from Ghiberti’s panels to the golden mosaics on the ceiling inside!

    Reply
    • admin
      admin says:
      September 21, 2013 at 2:33 pm

      I’m sure it must be marvelous.

      Reply
  3. Mary {The World Is A Book}
    Mary {The World Is A Book} says:
    September 16, 2013 at 9:03 am

    What an amazing door! I haven’t had the pleasure of visiting Florence yet but what a masterpiece. I’m sure it’s a treat to see those busts staring back – a bit creepy but awesome on how they look.

    Reply
    • admin
      admin says:
      September 21, 2013 at 2:35 pm

      The funny thing is that you don’t notice the busts unless you look for them – and then it gets a bit creepy alright:)

      Reply
  4. Leigh
    Leigh says:
    September 16, 2013 at 2:35 pm

    I like the sculptural head poking out.

    Reply
    • admin
      admin says:
      September 21, 2013 at 2:37 pm

      Me too – shows the sculptor had a sense of humour.

      Reply
  5. Sophie
    Sophie says:
    September 16, 2013 at 10:28 pm

    I obviously haven’t seen nearly enough of Florence yet. I should go and stay for at least a week…

    Reply
    • admin
      admin says:
      September 21, 2013 at 2:38 pm

      I’m sure you’ll get round to that eventually:)

      Reply
  6. Salika Jay
    Salika Jay says:
    September 17, 2013 at 2:37 pm

    The details of the artwork is just amazing. The head poping out is fascinating.

    Reply
    • admin
      admin says:
      September 21, 2013 at 2:39 pm

      Yes, makes you wish you had paid closer attention to religious history, when someone bothered to try to teach it

      Reply
  7. Muza-chan
    Muza-chan says:
    September 19, 2013 at 3:20 pm

    Beautiful…

    Reply
    • admin
      admin says:
      September 21, 2013 at 2:40 pm

      Thank you:)

      Reply
  8. Kathy
    Kathy says:
    July 1, 2017 at 4:03 am

    I enjoyed your story and pictures. I’ve never been to Florence, Italy, though, I did have a grandmother named Florence. (smile) Maybe, one day I’ll get there.

    Reply
    • Mette
      Mette says:
      July 29, 2017 at 11:20 am

      I’m sure you will. Though tenuous, you do have a link to the stunning capital of Tuscany;)

      Reply

Trackbacks & Pingbacks

  1. Best Travel Blog Posts | Week 1 | TBU Book of Travel Bloggers says:
    October 14, 2013 at 11:19 am

    […] Notes had a staring contest at the Gates of Paradise, Florence in this week’s blog […]

    Reply

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