Looking back at the Paradise Gates in Florence
The newly restored Paradise Gates are among the many free sights in Florence, and if you look closely they stare right back at you.
One of the great things about Florence in Tuscany is that you can walk around the centre and accidentally bump into great works of art. Like Lorenzo Ghiberti’s golden door in the octagonal Florence Baptistery opposite the cathedral.
I had read how floods, vandalism and pollution had rendered the gilded bronze from 1452 grey and grimy. And heard about new methods of restoration and how the original panels had been replaced by copies. Yet I had all but forgotten about the doors, until I saw a large group of tourist with their backs to the cathedral and cameras pointed at a spiky fence.
Pictures and details from the gates of paradise with the restored golden door to the left compared to the grimy bronze to the right.
Named by Michelangelo
On closer inspection I saw the celebrated golden East door depicting 10 scenes from the Old Testament, and though I couldn’t quite recognize the stories, it was impossible not to admire the details in low relief that had been 21 years in the making. It was these doors Michelangelo called the Gates of Paradise, and the name has stuck ever since.
What fascinated me the most, however, was the framework surrounding the panels. Ghiberti has not just decorated the frames with foliage, fruit and the occasional prophet. He has also inserted 24 busts including a self portrait that stick their necks out and stare right back at us. So even though we were centuries apart I tried to engage in a staring contest with the famous artist. And unsurprisingly I blinked first.
I was there in the early 1990s and there weren’t any fences. The original doors had been taken down and copies were in place but there was no need for a fence at that time. Sad to see there is now. On the upside, Ghiberti was a an amazing sculptor and fenced or not, the doors are a must see.
Interesting. I found the fences a bit disturbing as you have to push your way up to the front of the line to really see through them.
I LOVE LOVE LOVE the Gates of Paradise and the Baptistery too from the outside in!! Exquisite in every respect from Ghiberti’s panels to the golden mosaics on the ceiling inside!
I’m sure it must be marvelous.
What an amazing door! I haven’t had the pleasure of visiting Florence yet but what a masterpiece. I’m sure it’s a treat to see those busts staring back – a bit creepy but awesome on how they look.
The funny thing is that you don’t notice the busts unless you look for them – and then it gets a bit creepy alright:)
I like the sculptural head poking out.
Me too – shows the sculptor had a sense of humour.
I obviously haven’t seen nearly enough of Florence yet. I should go and stay for at least a week…
I’m sure you’ll get round to that eventually:)
The details of the artwork is just amazing. The head poping out is fascinating.
Yes, makes you wish you had paid closer attention to religious history, when someone bothered to try to teach it
Beautiful…
Thank you:)
I enjoyed your story and pictures. I’ve never been to Florence, Italy, though, I did have a grandmother named Florence. (smile) Maybe, one day I’ll get there.
I’m sure you will. Though tenuous, you do have a link to the stunning capital of Tuscany;)