Where to Explore the Backwaters of Venice
There is so much more to Venice than San Marco, if you want to escape the crowds. Here’s an introduction to some of the most charming backwaters and districts of Venice
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As regards tourism in Venice one thing never ceases to puzzle me. Here you have one of the most magic cities in the world spread out over 118 beautiful and independent islands and yet all the tourists crowd San Marco though it is just one small part of one island. Makes me wonder if most visitors really know what they are missing?
The city of Venice is divided into six sestieri which apart from San Marco are Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo, Dorsoduro, and Castello and in most of these areas it is quite easy to escape the crowds.
Cannaregio
Cannaregio is packed with tourists along the main thoroughfare running from the train station to the Rialto Bridge. Still, you don’t have to cross many canals to find peaceful residential areas, ordinary cafés and morning markets as well as what used to be the Venetian Ghetto where Jews were locked in at night. There are also some really nice churches in this district of Venice with works of Tintoretto and Tiepolo.
Santa Croce
Santa Croce is the only district of Venice open for cars, but if you look beyond the port and the artificial parking island Tronchetto you will find a inconspicuous medieval core with narrow, covered alleys and generous decay. The area is a little messy but very charming. And there are also a few palazzos and museums like the natural history museum in Fontego dei Turchi, Ca’ Pesaro with its collection of modern art by Gustav Klimt, Vasilij Kandinskij and Matisse and Ca’Corner della Regina where Fondazione Prada opened a new exhibition space for contemporary art last year.
San Polo
San Polo is the smallest and one of the oldest districts of Venice as can be seen from the amazing churches in the area. Main attractions are the Rialto Bridge, the lively fish and produce markets that have been part of the district for more than 1000 years and the Gothic Frari church with art treasures by Titian, Bellini and Donatello. Art aficionados will also appreciate Scuola Grande di San Rocco with more than 50 fabulous paintings by Tintoretto. And travelling children like the open spaces and playground on Campo San Polo.
Dorsoduro
Dorsoduro is a perfect place to explore the quiet beauty of Venice. Stroll along the Zattere waterfront and enjoy the inimitable gelati, unspoiled cafes, shops and the view over the Giudecca island or go to the right bank of the Rio San Trovaso to see one of the last remaining gondola workshops in the city. Most tourists come here to see the collection of Venetian art in Galleria dell’ Accademia, Peggy Guggenheims Collection of modern art or the Ca’Rezzonico museum house.
Castello
Castello behind Riva degli Schiavoni has its own faded beauty with narrow canals, welcoming residential areas and open squares. Part of the old Arsenale where the ships of the Republic were built is still a military area closed, but behind it in Sant’Elena you’ll find public gardens where the biannual Biennale is held.
More on the backwaters of Venice
Venice islands you don’t want to miss
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I have yet to visit Venice but would definitely take your advice and get off the tourist path. It looks like there is so much to explore in Venice and Dorsoduro sounds very appealing to me.
Venice has never been on my radar, but after seeing two posts in as many days, I’m thinking it should be!
Thank you for sharing this. I’ve always wanted to visit Venice, but have been somewhat put off by what I hear about all the crowds. Now I know where to go to find a more peaceful Venice!
I love the out of the way parts of touristy towns. You can always find a way to escape the crowds and are usually rewarded with sights most people miss! Thanks for the information on Venice.
This is the second post I’m reading today about Venice. I’m taking it as a sign. I’ve not been to Venice, maybe it’s time.
Venice is one of my favorite cities. One of my most memorable moments is walking these quiet and quaint areas away from San Marco and exploring the hidden corners. Dorsoduro was one of those that captivated us. I love that gondola picture.
Venice looks beautiful, but I’ve always envisioned it as being really crowded. Great to hear that I don’t have to be stuck in the middle of chaos to enjoy the city.
Venice is such an unusual and romantic City everyone should visit. In fact there is so much to see you need to go many times to really appreciate all there is. Sitting in St Mark’s square for a coffee whilst listing to the beautiful live music is pure theatre. I could go on and on……….
Some useful points about visiting Venice, thanks.
Tourism needs to spread out away from the centre of the city, as you suggest.
From the author of ”Venice in Environmental Peril? Myth and Reality’ (UPA 2012). Also see my weblog at:
https://www.dominicstandish.com/
What a great guide! I had no idea that there were 118 islands in Venice. I assumed that most of the city was touristy. This will be so helpful when I’m in Venice later this year.
Lots of lovely things to explore in Venice here, that I had no idea about. I’ve only really seen the most famous – and most crowded – parts of this unusual city, (though I was so young then, crowds didn’t bother me). Really nice list here, keeping this for next time I visit.
Great post. I’m going to Venice on Monday so looking forward to checking out some of the less crowded spots in the city. Also love the gondola picture with the pink sky!
Wonderful post!! Stayed in Castello and loved the neighborhood very much. Ventured out to Murano and took speed boat tour thru the Adriatic!! Reveled in every moment! Thank you for taking me back to the enchanting city of Venice!!
I haven’t been to Venice for a few years, but it’s always a magic place to re-visit. Have you ever been to the island of San Lazzaro, a bit off the beaten track but worth it. It has a monastery with an Armenian history and the monks run regular tours.
I spent 3 magical days in Venice and will be back as soon as possible for even longer. While we did visit the usual tourist meccas, we also did a lot of exploring areas where we felt that we were the only tourists. I definitely agree that off-the-beaten path is where the real magic of Venice lies, and a month wouldn’t be enough to do more than scratch the surface.
Thanks for contributing with your personal experiences. The only San Lazzero I’ve been to is the one in Bologna, but this island sounds so much more appealing.
Thanks – lots of great information. We love visiting Venice. I am a big fan of Vivaldi. We stay at camping di venezia. Great to have some “off the beaten” track information to look for next time we visit. Also there is a great new sleeper train which goes from Paris to Venice and arrives right in the old town. NOt that expensive either.
I know there’s lots of people who love staying at the camp sites outside Venice and see it as a great way for families to visit the city. Thank you also for the train tip.
Such a fascinating post on such a unique and amazing. Venice is one place I would love to visit. It is so different from anything like this in Canada.
The absence of cars except in Santa Croce would be so refreshing. I am imagining it would be an entirely different pace and way of life.
Thank you for sharing! :)
Actually, there are more places in Italy, where cars are banned, like for instance the tiny village Manarola in Cinque Terre.