Among rice fields in Italy
Paddy fields are normally associated with Southeast Asia, but you can also travel among rice fields in Italy. We followed the rice route and discovered new waterscapes in landlocked Piedmont.
Already when the plane started to descend over the Alps we could see the rice fields. From Biella to Pavia, vast stretches of land had been flooded by the fast flowing Sesia River, creating a huge patchwork of square, sky-reflecting ponds. This is where the round and short-gained Carnaroli and Arborio rice for Italian risotto are produced. Along with tasty whole grain varieties such as the black Riso Venere -used in eg. salads – and the red Riso Ermes – that work great as a base for salmon.
We started the tour in Trino and drove out among the fields on rented bicycles. A slow decline in the land over several hundred kilometers means that the flooding of the fields can be controlled and regulated through an ingenious system of irrigation ditches, canals and tiny dikes. The flooding ensures a steady water supply for the plants and – more importantly – provides thermal insulation to smooth out differences in temperature between night and day.
The paddy fields around Trino. Lucedio Abbey top right, and one of the Abbey’s original granges.
The origin of rice cultivation in Piedmont
Fifty years ago, the fields were cultivated by lines of young girls standing bent over in water all day to sow the plants, as seen in the neo-realistic film ‘Riso Amaro’. Today huge machinery has taken over the hard manual labour, so apart from a couple of farmers and an old man on a bicycle we had the area to ourselves. After about 10 kilometers we reached Lucedio Abbey, where Benedictine monks in the fifteenth century introduced the cultivation of rice to Piedmont in order to combat famine and plague.
The Abbey was secularized in 1784 after strong rumours of black magic, and there are those who claim that the place is still haunted. But that is an all together different story. And from the octagonal bell-tower there is a beautiful view of the surrounding fields and granges. The atomic reactors in the distance stand as a memorial over Italy’s nuclear power programme that was closed down completely in 1990.
Farmers, cooks and other rice-based craft
After Lucedio we drove into Vercelli that promotes itself as the capital of rice. Here there are shops specializing in the development of innovative rice-based products like di.LAB Gastronomia producing gluten-free gourmet food including the most delicious cakes, fast food and pasta.
From Vercelli we visited Baraggia at the foot of Monte Rosa. This area is known for the cool summers, and the rice fields here are the first to be irrigated by mountain streams. This gives the rice from Baraggia a special quality recognized through the Protected Designation of Origin stamp (DOP in Italian).
Guerrini’s farm shop and gluten-free cakes and gourmet hors d’oeuvres from di.LAB are some of the attractions to be found along the rice route. Along with the landscape of course.
All along the rice route there are numerous small hotels, restaurants, craft shops and farms open to the public. One of these farms is Guerrini in Solussola near Biella, where four brothers have turned the family farm into a streamlined business focusing on high quality products. They love sharing their knowledge and passion for the grain and the land with passing strangers, so there is every reason to take a look around and maybe buy one or two packets of rice in nice cotton bags as a nutritious souvenir.
A trip along the rice route will lead you to discover new aspects of Italy and turn most visitors into rice ‘connoisseurs’. Just remember to go in May when the fields are submerged in water and the landscape is transformed into an enormous, fascinating wetland. Once the green plants break the surface rice fields resemble most other crops.
Our tour along the rice route was hosted by Biteg – Borsa internazionale del turismo enogastronomico
This post was last updated in March 2017
Cooking inspiration found near and among the rice fields in Italy
I loved the part about the possibly haunted Abbey! Just due to my own lack of knowledge I never realized the intricacies to growing the best rice in the world…re: the water temperatures. I actually cooked with Arborio rice once and will definitely try that again. Risotto is an art…in my opinion…to get it just right. And thank you always for including the map, Mette! You know me and maps :)
You are right about the art of risotto cooking. And the locals are dead serious about it.
I had no idea there are rice fields in Italy. I love how much I learn from following Italian Notes.
Me too:)
I knew that rice was grown in the north of Italy but have not seen the waterlogged paddy fields. I agree that it is normally a south east Asian vision. I would like to see the same in Italy one day. I have heard that Italy is quite progressed in the Gluten Free field and it makes sense that it would stem from a rice growing area.
They are definitely trying hard to make allergy more appetizing.
Beautiful photos…
Thank you.
I never associated rice fields in Italy but when you brought up risotto, it made sense. What a great area and such a neat experience to see all the fields. I would love to stop at Guerrini too. All the goodies you featured here look delicious!
Yes, and they wrap their rice in cotton bags with a really pretty print.
It had never occurred to me that rice was grown in Italy either! Such an interesting tour route to follow!
A lot of people don’t know that. And others misunderstand the location of the rice fields. Directed by imprecise cooking books, I for one have been looking for rice fields in Veneto for years (without finding any).
I saw some rice fields last year while driving from the Lakes region in Piedmont to Voghera. Can’t believe I forgot to eat good risotto while I was there!
You’ll have to do that next time you visit this part of Piedmont.
I’m so glad I found this site! You have many interesting articles on Italy.
Tourists and outsiders normally associate Piemonte with wine and Lombardy / Milan with risotto. But the rice paddies in Piemonte are picturesque, and you have great information about how important rice cultivation is here.
Yes, it is true that Piedmont’s role in Italian rice production is generally unknown to the outside world.
Hi All,
My ancestors used to farm rice in the Monferrato province of Piedmont, and I still have access to the farm and some rice field plots. Would be interested to see it’s rival into growing some niche rice varieties.
You should do a rice itinerary through the area. The farmers we’ve met were very open and welcoming.
Thank you for sharing your travel notes in the Italian landscape of rice fields. My grandmother made “Italian Rice” and she was from the Piedmont region of Italy. My mom remembers eating rice as a child, but said when wheat became popular in America, they started eating that. Sadly, my mom has gluten sensitivity and passed this on to her children. I am no able to eat ANY wheat, and this has taken me years to realize, much to the damage of my body. When I started to eat Arborio rice, it was so easy to digest! I buy it all the time now, and am thankful for discovering something that was the staple of my people generations ago. Someday, I hope to visit this region and see the fields of rice.
My sympathies. Gluten sensitivity must be a problematic affliction, but perhaps you could find some inspiration in the products from di.Lab Gastronomia in Vercelli. Many producers in this town among the rice fields have specialized in rice based, gluten-free gourmet foods.
Hello Admin,
How should I cite this article if I want to use some pics respecting the copyrights?
Use ‘Copyright Italian Notes’, but please respect that we don’t want the photos used for commercial purposes.
Do you have some suggestions if I want to buy sorts of very high quality rice in this region ! Where can I visit to find a suppliers or sellers ? Can I ask farmers in my route ?
Several of the rice farmers have an outlet on the farm. We have eg. visited Riso Guerrini in Salussola, where they have a farm shop.
Thank you, your posts are very helpful. I have checked the website. Do you think is possible to buy the rice in bulk quantity like 500 kg (not packaged) while visiting there? Since I have a small brand and Im planning to visit the region to find a reliable source of supplier. Do have any tips ?
I’m not a merchant, so I’m way out of my depth here, but I think it should be possible. As I recall there were some pretty huge rice bags lined up in the shop, but I would definitely contact them in advance and ask about bulk prices and quantities.